Fashion has always been a form of expression – an expression of self, regions, people, culture, traditions and revolution. Every piece of cloth has a story to say about where it came from and how it was transformed. Fashion Design has stood the test of time and has evolved into everything we see today. Way back in the day, clothing for women were made without pockets stating the reason ‘Women did not have to carry money’. This Victorian era concept has now changed into a revolution with women demanding pockets and more outlets including functional pockets in their designs – A very obvious example of how fashion is more than just design and clothes. In this article, let us look into how fashion has evolved across ages and where fashion is now.
The Very Beginning
Mesopotamia, Egypt, Greece and Rome – The trails of fashion in ancient civilization can be traced back to these regions, forming a foundation for cultures of clothing as a way of expression.
In Egypt and Rome, clothes and accessories were a symbol of wealth, power and social standing. The Sumerians in Mesopotamia wore garments from wool and flax, people of ancient egypt adorned themselves with jewelry and headdresses, people of Greece used chiton and himation and in the Roman era, the toga was a symbol of where one stood in the society with regards to the quality and colour of the Toga worn.
Materials and Techniques Used in Ancient Fashion
Methods like dyeing, weaving and even embroidery come from a long line of history. Textiles and materials such as wool, flax and silk were primarily used in ancient fashion. Clothing was also integrated to divide people on the basis of strata and class. Quality of clothes were greater for people with greater privilege and the quality diminishes as one strata in the society lowers. The discussion about accessibility to resources is relevant even today, unfortunately.
In ancient Rome, Tyrian purple dye that was extracted from snails were only to be used by the emperors. The time then saw the usage of embroidery and symbols to indicate religious beliefs, social hierarchy and affiliations with politics.
Medieval and Renaissance Fashion
Medieval Europe
Fashion during the Middle Ages became more about well structured and tailored clothes. However, clothes and the hierarchy remained the same with the wealthy wearing more silk and velvet clothes and people regarded the ‘peasants’ wore garments made from wool and/or linen.
Clothes and fashion were also quite heavily influenced by the church and the concept of modest clothing was adopted. New fabrics, however, were introduced contributing to a very small yet noticeable revolution.
Fashion During The Renaissance
The Renaissance, in European Civilization, is attributed to classical learning and wisdom. The word means ‘rebirth’ and the concept had transcended to fashion as well. The time saw interests in art, culture and altruism.
Fashion became elaborate and extravagant, with careful handling and detailing of luxurious fabric and focusing more and self expression. The spinning wheel and newer dyeing methods gave way for creations.
Italy, the very cradle and provenance of the Renaissance saw the integration of brocade, velvet and silk, quite obviously by the wealthy merchants to exhibit their sophistication. During the time, women’s clothing had the corset added to it; underscoring a narrow waist.
17th to 19th Century Fashion
Baroque and Rococo
The 17th and 18th centuries saw the dawning of the Baroque and Rococo Periods. Designs and embroidery were more intricate and materials used were quite luxurious. Trends during these times continued for many centuries. The era was more about higher heels, extravagant wigs and skirts that seemed quite voluminous and heavy, all indicating court life.
The Industrial Revolution
More practical, less extravagant – shift in fashion during the industrial revolution in the 19th Century, The time brought notable changes – the invention of the sewing machine, more production of textiles, clothes that were more accessible and affordable. Women fancied crinoline, a still petticoat worn to make a bell shaped skirt and more men wore tailored suits.
20th Century Fashion Evolution
1. Early 1900s
The rise of Haute Couture – with the introduction of newer silhouettes revolutionized by designers like Charles Frederick Worth and Paul Poiret.
2. 1920s to 1940s
The Flapper Era – looser silhouettes, shorter hemlines and more androgynous approaches in style. WWII saw the coming of more utility oriented clothes that were more functional and economical.
3.1950s to 1960s
The return of femininity and glamour – Designers like Mary Quant introduced bold patterns with the mod movement and Christian Dior created full skirts with cinched skirts. The movie Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris shows the world of Dior and its beginning.
4. 1970s to 1980s
The Disco Era – Glamorous, shimmers and bold colours. The punk movement led by designers like Vivienne Westwood brought more rebellious aesthetics. Power Dressing was also a thing of the 80s with oversized shoulder pads and extravagance.
5.1990s to 2000s
Minimalism and Simple Silhouettes – Brought forward by designers like Calvin Klein and Jil Sander; clean lines and neutral colours. The 2000s were when we saw the rise of fast fashion and clothes being labeled more ‘trendy’
The 21st Century
Fashion in the 21st Century has been both new and previous. More styles today are an influence of styles once followed but with a twist. There is more scope for personalization and making unique statements. With the rise of social media and the influencer culture, more people look towards upgraded wardrobes, bolder colours and patterns and being confident about personal preferences. We also see more businesses adopting sustainable and environment friendly approaches and being mindful of the textile waste they produce.
Conclusion
Fashion and clothes have always been means of self expression and ways to evoke a lot of emotions. People prefer to dress according to occasions, feelings and even locations. Fashion has also been revolutionary with regards to communities fighting for what belongs to them, saving their traditions and cultures from being appropriated and other marginalized communities standing up for themselves to be able to wear clothes that were otherwise deemed not for them. Those interested in the world of fashion can now choose from multiple institutes that offer programs to learn fashion designing and multi disciplines within the industry. The Fashion industry is ever-evolving and here to stay.
Read more about AAFT’s School of Fashion and Design here.